Posted at 5:25 p.m. EDT Tuesday, September 22, 1998

It's a dog's life

Canine caterers are barking up the right tree

By JANE SNOW Knight Ridder
Nice doggy. Have a biscuit. Or perhaps a biscotti, a faux burger or a fancy doggy cake, complete with bowser's name spelled in yummy icing.

Life isn't exactly ruff for pooches these days, especially in cities that have gourmet dog bakeries. The chic spots sell such fresh-baked treats as molasses snaps, burritos, pizzas and bagels. One store, Pavlov's Bark Market in Hudson, Ohio, caters parties in a special fenced area of the store with a water tap, loaner bowls and a real fire hydrant.

``We are definitely inviting dogs,'' says owner Marc Carroll. ``We really want them in here.''

At Barbara's Canine Catering and Canine Cafe in Pineville, owner Barbara Burg frequently holds special events for dogs and their owners, everything from dress-alike parties to the upcoming second annual Halloween party, with prizes for costumes.

And Saturday mornings are popular, she says. Owners bring their dogs for Mutt Muffins and Breakfast Power Bars.

Carroll and partner Dave Shand, who opened Pavlov's this summer, are betting humans will happily shell out $1.50 for a doggie biscotti, $5.50 a pound for molasses snaps and garlic drops, and up to $19 for a carrot cake to mark a pet's birthday or obedience school graduation.

They may be right. Dog owners spend $9 billion annually on pet food, compared with $6 billion for baby food, according to Forbes magazine.

Gourmet pet food is a relatively new wrinkle, but one that has taken off. Einstein Bros Bagels now offers dog biscuits in the shape of bagels, and even at 95 cents each, they're selling well, according to company officials.

``They've very popular,'' said Tammie McCagg at the Einstein Bros on South Boulevard in Charlotte. ``They're made of carob, so they taste like chocolate.''

But perhaps the best indication that gourmet is going to the dogs is the Three Dog Bakery, based in Kansas City, Mo. Dan Dye and Mark Beckloff started the dog bakery nine years ago with a small loan from their retirement funds, and the business now boasts annual sales of $8 million. Three Dog products are available at some pet stores, including PetSmart in Charlotte.

``There are a lot of people who take care of their pets,'' Carroll says. ``There's a new market for this kind of stuff.''

Barbara Burg started her business in 1994 after her own dog, T.J., developed allergies and wasn't able to eat commercial dog treats. Her treats, including biscuits, bits and cookies, are all-natural and chemical- and preservative-free. She uses carob for ``chocolate'' (chocolate can be dangerous for dogs) and nontoxic petal dust for coloring.

And she now has customers wagging their tails all over the country. Harris Teeter, Reid's and Talley's stock her dog treats, but she has expanded to national distribution through the all-natural supermarket chains Whole Foods and Wild Oats. And her bakery's Web site, www.k9treat.com, brings in orders from all over.

``It's not only for people in an income bracket that's . . . '' Burg waves her hand above her head. ``They come in BMWs, they come in pickup trucks. They even come on Harleys.'' One couple touring the country by motorcycle doubled back and stopped -- with their dog -- when they passed Burg's shop.

Developing doggie treats takes more than baking experience. Burg developed her recipes with advice from veterinarians and the N.C. State University science department.

Burg makes Doggie Daiquiris -- nonalcoholic and nondairy, of course -- as well as biscuits and bits in every flavor from garlic herb to pumpkin cinnamon. She makes colorful petit fours and puppy tarts, and cakes in carrot, carob chip, apple oatmeal and banana flavors with yogurt-honey frosting.

Carroll of Pavlov's read books about canine nutrition, talked to veterinarians and experimented with his own dogs to come up with flavorful, nutritious recipes. Most of the treats are made with whole-wheat flour, wheat germ, peanut butter and eggs, and sweetened with honey or molasses. The carrot cake contains grated carrots and peanuts. The crunchy pizzas, tacos and burritos feature the biscuit base topped with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese. No salt or preservatives are added.

Veterinarian Mark Carlson of the Stow-Kent Animal Clinic in Stow, Ohio, sees nothing wrong with feeding dogs an occasional treat made from such ingredients.

``I wouldn't have a problem at all with people using those as treats,'' Carlson says.

Giving a dog treats promotes the bond between the animal and the owner, he says, and, given in moderation, will cause the animal no harm.

``In feeding a quality commercial diet, you can supplement up to 15 percent of the total daily ration with (treats) and you won't upset the nutritional balance,'' Carlson says.

However, Carlson says, dog owners should keep an eye on the pet's weight to make sure they aren't overdoing it.

That may be difficult with the treats sold in gourmet dog bakeries. The items look good enough for humans to eat. And some do, says Burg. She uses human-grade ingredients and some of her customers buy treats to take home for themselves. (To meet regulations that prohibit animals from places where food is served, only dogs are allowed to chow down at Barbara's Canine Cafe.)

The upscale items extend beyond the eats. Pets can put on the dog with such accessories as rawhide greeting cards printed with soy ink, designer dog dishes hand-painted by local artists, and collars in faux fur prints. There are even Harley-Davidson and Planet Doggywood T-shirts for the pooches.

It helps to have a sense of humor in the doggie treat business. Shand and Carroll call their products by such whimsical names as ``Count Dogulas Garlic Drops'' and ``Fat Marc's Belly Draggers.''

``We're having a lot of fun with this concept,'' Carroll says. ``It's great because we're both dog people.''

And on a recent busy day in Burg's shop, she was getting ready to host two visiting Russian dogs from the Royal Hanneford Circus. Burg had dog-size cowboy hats and and a cake ready to go: ``Let's Paw-ty.''


Barbara's Canine Cafe, 315 Main St., in Pineville, is open 10 a.m.-6 p.m. weekdays, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturdays. For details, call LUV-DOGS (588-3647) or visit the Web site, www.k9treat.com, or e-mail Burg at barbara@k9treat.com. To reach the shop from Interstate 485, take N.C. 521 to Main Street and turn right. The shop is across from the Pineville Police Station.


Food editor Kathleen Purvis contributed to this article.